Handcrafted Jewelry Process | Silver & Gold Techniques

Step 1: (almost) Every Ring Begins as Wax

Some of my rings start as hand-carved wax models in my studio.

Wax carving allows me to shape the ring exactly as I envision it — adjusting proportions, refining curves, and designing gemstone settings with precision. At this stage, the piece exists only as a sculpted model, but every detail matters.

This wax model is what eventually becomes the metal ring.

Step 2: Turning Wax Into Metal – The Casting Process

 

Once the wax model is complete, it must be transformed into metal. There are two primary casting methods I use:

 

• Lost-Wax Casting (Traditional Investment Casting)

 

Lost-wax casting is a centuries-old jewelry making technique. In this process, the wax model is encased in a mold, then melted away, leaving a cavity where molten metal (such as sterling silver or 14k gold) is poured.

For more complex designs — especially intricate gemstone bezels — I work with a professional casting studio in New York to ensure precision and structural integrity.

This step turns the carved wax into solid metal.

 

• Sand Casting (In-Studio)

For certain designs, I perform sand casting directly in my studio.

Sand casting allows me to control the entire process at my bench. It’s especially beautiful for organic textures and one-of-a-kind pieces.

If a ring can be cast entirely in my studio, it is.

Step 3: Stone Setting and Finishing

Once the ring returns in metal form, the true refinement begins.

I personally:

• Set each gemstone
• Build and solder bezels when needed
• Refine edges and proportions
• File, sand, and polish the piece by hand

Every ring is crafted one by one — never mass produced.

This is what defines handmade fine jewelry: the artist touches every stage of the process.

Why Handmade Jewelry Is Different.

Unlike factory-made jewelry, handcrafted jewelry allows for:

• Individual design decisions
• Structural integrity tailored to each gemstone
• Small-batch or one-of-a-kind production
• Attention to detail at every stage

Handmade rings are not rushed through an assembly line. They are built in layers — wax, casting, setting, finishing.

That process takes time. And that time is what gives the piece character.

Frequently Asked Questions About Handmade Jewelry

Is handmade jewelry really made by hand?

Yes — in artisan jewelry making, the artist designs, sculpts, casts, sets, and finishes each piece individually. While some steps (like professional casting for complex pieces) may involve specialized studios, the design and craftsmanship remain personal and intentional.

What is the difference between lost-wax casting and sand casting?

Lost-wax casting uses a detailed wax model that is melted away to create a mold for metal. Sand casting uses compressed sand to create the mold shape. Both are traditional metal casting methods used in fine jewelry.

Why would a jeweler use an external casting studio?

Complex designs — especially intricate gemstone settings — require precision casting equipment. Partnering with a professional casting studio ensures structural strength and accuracy before the piece returns to the artist for finishing and stone setting.

Is handmade jewelry more durable?

When properly crafted, handmade fine jewelry can be extremely durable because the artist controls the structure, thickness, and gemstone setting method rather than relying on mass production standards. 

The Philosophy Behind My Process

 

There are many techniques in jewelry making. I choose the ones that demand intention.

Wax. Metal. Fire. Precision.

Every ring I create is built slowly, thoughtfully, and one by one — whether sand cast in my studio or cast through the traditional lost-wax process.

That is the difference between handmade jewelry and factory production.

And that is how your ring begins.